An armoire was once considered a very necessary piece of furniture in many homes. It wasn’t until the middle of the 20th century that architects began including more closets into their designs.

Although they haven’t been a necessary item in a long time, today, they’re a much cherished and loved piece of furniture.

If you have an antique armoire or are planning on purchasing one, there are several things that you can look at to

determine the time frame when an antique armoire was built.

You don’t need to hire a professional to get an approximate age of an antique.

First of all, you’ll want to determine whether or not the armoire is indeed an antique. And, there are a few simple clues that will establish that it is an older piece of furniture.

The majority of antiques were made entirely by hand, which means that they’re not completely perfect.

Types of wood

Most antiques will also be constructed of several types of wood. Because it didn’t make sense economically to use expensive types of wood in the areas that didn’t show, the bottoms, backs or insides are often made from cheaper woods such as pine or maple.

Reproductions tend to be made using the same wood from top to bottom.

Carved areas

If the armoire has any carved areas, run your finger along the edges. Antiques were all carved by hand and the carvings should feel slightly bumpy and uneven. If the lines are smooth and perfectly carved, it was done by a machine and is a good indicator that it’s a newer piece.

Signs of shrinkage and the wood darkens

Because wood contains a lot of water, an antique will show some signs of shrinkage and the wood darkens with age. Since thinner panels of wood shrink faster, the best place to look for this clue is around any edges of panels, such as in the door.

If the panels don’t completely fit against the frame, this could be a sign of shrinkage from age. However, you should also be able to notice that wood in the gaps between the panel and the frame are lighter in color than the rest of the frame.

And, there may also be splits or cracks on the armoire due to shrinkage.

Hinges, knobs or handles

Next you should carefully inspect the hardware such as hinges, knobs or handles. If the hardware is vintage, it will have a patina. Patina refers to the discoloration, usually a greenish color caused by oxidation and is a good sign of age.

The wood around the hardware should also be darker due to oxidation.

There are two main ways that almost anyone can determine an approximate date of when an antique armoire was built. You can usually get a good idea from the way the wood was cut and how the armoire was put together.

The way in which the piece is put together is very important in determining age.

Signs of saw marks

Inspect the armoire for any signs of saw marks, generally on the back or the underside. If the marks are straight, but irregular, it indicates that the piece was built prior to 1830. Around 1830, most wood was cut by a sawmill which left straight, more even marks.

The circular saw wasn’t invented until around 1850. So, if there are cuts that have a circular shape, the piece was made after 1850. Also, run your hand over the exposed surfaces of the wood.

Antiques were all sanded by hand and the surface should feel slightly uneven and not completely smooth.

Nails and screws

Another very good indication of age is the nails and screws that were used in the armoire. During the 1700’s, blacksmiths forged nails individually. After the nail was shaped, it was placed into a heading tool and struck several times with a hammer to form the square head.

Between 1790 and 1890, cut nails were commonly used. And, beginning around 1880, nails were produced by machines and had round shaped heads. Screws were all handmade up until around 1815. The head slot was cut by hand and were rarely cut straight across the center of the flat screw head.

In most cases only a professional will know how to date an antique bed. With so many copies and reproductions being made, sometimes only a well trained eye can tell the difference.

However, while you might not get an exact date there are several steps for how to date an antique bed.

If you’re buying a antique bed from an individual, it’s always a good idea to inquire about the beds history. If the bed has been in their family for a long time, they should be able to give you a good idea of when the bed was made.

They may even be able to tell you exactly when the bed was purchased.

Check for any labels or identifying marks

One of the first steps that you should take to determine the beds age is to check for any labels or identifying marks. In the nineteenth century, manufacturers began assigning numbers to each new patent.

If the bed has a number, you can search for it at the patent office to find the manufacturer and date.

Look at any hardware used on the piece

Another excellent way of dating a piece of furniture is to look at any hardware used on the piece. Prior to 1830, very few furniture makers used screws.

Instead, pieces of furniture were held together with the use of dowels or pegs. And, since they were made by hand they won’t be uniform in size.

The earliest screws were fairly short, generally no longer than one half inch and had flat heads.

The tips of the screws were blunt and the threads were barely visible. The slots in the screw heads were all cut by hand, so they aren’t generally centered.

Glue wasn’t used until the early eighteenth century.

Nails

If there are any nails in your antique bed, examine them closely even if you have to use a magnifying glass. The nail head should be square, but not perfectly square and it should be slightly worn down from age. If the nails show these signs, the bed might have been made before 1820.

The circular saw wasn’t invented until the end of the eighteenth century. Before that all wood was cut by hand and there should be visible signs of saw marks.

Often, the cuts weren’t completely straight and there may be slight gaps between wood pieces.

Veneer panels

If the antique bed has any veneer panels you might be able to get a close estimate of the date it was made by examining them closely. The earliest  veneers were made of walnut and were usually about an eighth of an inch thick.

And, often the grains in the veneers didn’t match perfectly.

The earliest pieces of furniture were constructed of solid wood. From around 1680, veneers became a really popular way to add decorative touches to furniture.

They were either cut with the grain of the wood to look fairly plain, or cut across the grain to be more decorative.

Because antique beds were made entirely by hand, they’re not completely perfect. And, since they are so old, they will generally show lot’s of signs of use.

Although, you can find some antique beds that have been kept in mint condition, if it looks almost new, it’s probably not very old.

These are just a few of the numerous ways of how to tell if a bed is antique. If it’s really important for you to know the exact age of a piece of antique furniture, you will probably have to have a professional dealer inspect the piece.

They will be able to distinguish whether you have a valuable antique, or just an older piece of furniture.

In antique furniture which dates back more than 100 years, there are various styles that you can find and if you know what to look out for, you can identify antiques from replicas and reproduction pieces. This will allow you to make an informed choice when going furniture shopping for antique pieces, or determine how much to pay for a piece of furniture that you think is antique.

Looking at how old a chair, wardrobe or desk is, you can look at the wood that was used, the type of joinery, the saw markings, the hidden pieces on the furniture, the carvings, the style, and the finishes. With some elements like the styling and decorative features, it can be harder to tell how old a piece is, as there are many reproduction pieces and design features that were used over many eras.

There are lots of styles that you can choose from and they all have distinguishing markings and features. Usually you will find pieces that are limited to the America Colonial and Traditional English periods at garage sales and in second hand shops, and in some hip boutique hotels like britannia hotel manchester or Andy Thorton . However, if you want to find the genuine Louis the XV chair you will have to go to a professional dealer or antiques fair (I suggest You to have a look here: What antique furniture .com) .

Looking at the styles you get, the older English pieces are categorized into Queen Anne, Georgian Chippendale, Georgian Adam, Georgian Hepplewhite, Late 18th Century, Georgian Sheraton, and Regency.

In the American Colonial styles you get the Early Colonial, Late Colonial, Federal, Pennsylvania Dutch, and the Shaker furniture. Here you will find more detail about what each style consists of:

English pieces

Queen Anne – This style comes from the early 18th century, and is mainly made from walnut, cherry-wood, oak, mahogany, and maple. These pieces normally consist of lots of curves which are graceful and plenty of curved legs, there were no rungs or any kinds of stretchers used, and they were simple and elegant with not too much decoration.

Georgian Chippendale – This style dates back to the late 18th century, and was predominantly made from mahogany. They are a slight elaboration from the Queen Anne style with more ornate carvings and features, many of which were quite bold. Many themes were also used such as Chinese, Rococo, English, and Greek Classic. The chair backs were especially intricate.

Georgian Adam – Also dating to the late 18th century, and also using mainly mahogany, the Georgian Adam used slender lines and was influenced mainly by Greek Classical styles. As such, fluted columns were used frequently and delicate carvings were introduced, like the draped garlands which were a favored design.

Georgian Hepplewhite – This style is from the late 18th century, and uses mahogany and satinwood inlays or veneer. This style was based on the Adam, with tapered legs, and oval, heart, or shield shaped backs of chairs.

Georgian Sheraton – Also from the late 18th century, made from mahogany, this is similar to the Hepplewhite, only straighter lines were used and the Classic Greek influence saw lyre shaped chair backs.

Regency – Dating to the early 19th century, mahogany was favored and the designs were bold, simple, and more functional, with colors being used.

American Colonial stylesEarly Colonial

Dating to the 17th century, this style used maple, pine, birch, and walnut with heavy decorations and carvings. These were solid constructions and lots of square lines were used.

Late Colonial – From the 18th century, this style used mainly pine and mahogany, and the pieces were interpretations of the English Georgian and Queen Anne styles. One example is the Windsor Chair.

Federal – This dates to the early 19th century and used woods like mahogany and cherry. These were interpretations of the Georgian styles with some French influence and are heavier than the English styles. Examples are the Hitchcock Chari and the Boston rocker.

Pennsylvania Dutch – This style is from the late 17th century to mid-19th and used pine, maple, walnut, and fruit woods. They are plain Germanic styled pieces and are solid and usually painted colorfully with Germanic decorations.

Shaker – This dates from the late 18th century to the mid-19th century with pieces being made from pine and maple. They are very functional with no decoration but of excellent design and craftsmanship.

Kenny Korn knows wood, he knows all kinds of furniture, and he knows the ins and outs of restoration. That makes him, in turn, a handy man to know.

Korn, 55, is short and wiry, helpful and polite, with a ready smile and a down-home accent. He’s originally from the Mehlville area; his father was his first inspiration.

“My dad was really good with wood,” he says, “and I used to watch him. It always fascinated me to see what a piece of wood looked like when it was finished, if it was done right.”

Korn worked with wood from the time he was a teenager, but he didn’t get into it as a career until later. From the age of 20 to 35, he worked in heavy equipment repair and welding. “But I always fiddled around with wood after work, doing little boxes or maybe refinishing a chair for somebody.”

After suffering some health problems, Korn got into refinishing as a business instead of a hobby. He started out by working as a helper for Percy Pfohl, “a master. He was one of the top (refinishers) in St. Louis, and I really wanted to be like him. Every time we went out (on a job), I took notes. I still have that book.”

Later, Korn went out on his own, working with antique dealers in the Cherokee District: “I’ve seen a lot of pieces and asked a lot of questions, and the dealers have given me a lot of knowledge.”

Among the things he learned was the reputation, quality and peculiarities of different manufacturers of furniture “from the old days.” He’s worked on brands that were originally “real cheap — poor man’s, worker-man’s furniture. Now, they’re considered really nice pieces. I know how they did things,” and that makes it easier to put them right.

Today, Korn is the chief technician for Centaur Building Services in St. Louis, where he’s in charge of all facets of refinishing furniture, from giving estimates to delivering the finished pieces.

Centaur’s primary business is cleaning offices, and Korn often goes out to office buildings late at night to work on desks and chairs when no one is around. That’s given him expertise with both old and new furniture.

He says he can fix almost anything, although some cheaper modern furniture, in particular, isn’t really worth his time and the owner’s money. “When there’s a big gash in the piece, I use body putty, like on automobiles. It doesn’t take stain, so you have to cover up that body putty to match everything else. It takes skill to make sure it’s not sticking out like a sore thumb.”

Korn cites a 160-year-old china cabinet that was a candidate for being dragged to the curb when its new owner called him in; its doors were badly warped, and it was spattered with paint.

“I cleaned it up and discovered it was pieced together out of different kinds of hardwood. It had a bow in the top and gaps between the boards — but I was able to get the bow out and make it level.” Today the cabinet is a prized feature in the owner’s dining room.

That’s his favorite part of restoration: transforming battered old furniture into something beautiful. “I think in my mind how it looked when I first saw it; I think how it looked when it was made. It’s really rewarding to bring a piece back to life.”

Source

Another interesting news is related to outdoor rugs, A watercolor artist and designer, David Milliken’s signature designs have been translated into a whimsical new rug collection offering homeowners the opportunity to integrate original art into their indoor/outdoor areas.

Created from an imaginative series of playful paintings, Milliken’s area rugs conjure carefree, humorous and abstract decorative looks that offer a stylish lift to any contemporary space, from the kitchen to the sunroom.

“Original artwork is a key fashion trend when it comes to outdoor rugs, pillows, and lighting,” notes Mike Voyles of Homeinfatuation.com, where the rugs are carried.

Milliken’s signature style is to take cues from his surroundings.

“My themes are as simple as the beauty of nature to the fun of tumbling clowns,” he says.

Not surprisingly, his collection is inspired by the works of great contemporary artists such as Paul Klee, Miroux and Bill Traylor.

These durable rugs are available with either 24 oz. high-grade nylon surface or non-slip industrial-grade rubber backing, making them ideal for both indoor and outdoor spaces. They can be machine washed or spot cleaned with a hose and brush. The woven back is recommended for indoors or covered patios, decks or porches and may need a carpet pad to prevent slipping. Rubber backed rugs are ready to go in all weather conditions.

Source

When you have an insect infestation in your antique wood furniture, like termites, this is a serious problem that must be dealt with effectively and efficiently if you hope to maintain the value of your piece and ensure that the problem doesn’t spread to other antiques that you have.

Termites are not a common problem when it comes to antique furniture, but depending on the location of the furniture and how long it was left unprotected, termites can easily move in and infest your precious antiques. So, what do you do to get rid of them?
Well, the first and most obvious answer is to take the piece of furniture to a pest control expert and fumigation specialist who deals in antique pieces.

They will be able to successfully get rid of the termites and any eggs that have still not hatched in the item without damaging the piece or reducing its value in any way. If there is already significant damage due to termites, your antique wood furniture might need to be restored and fixed to remove the holes and get it back to its original state.

To avoid doing certain things and taking care of your antiques correctly is the easiest way to get rid of termites before they even become a problem.

One thing that you must do is be careful of where you place your items. Termites like water and so placing it in a position that gets moist very quickly will attract them. Not only this, but the moisture can also damage your antique in other ways.

Checking your house for termites often will prevent them from nesting in the first place. If you find that there are small exit holes where termites or other bugs have been, you can take the item (if it is just a drawer for example) and place it inside a bag along with the appropriate poison for about 2 weeks.

Another way to get rid of bugs and termites that you think are inside your piece of antique furniture is to bag the items, if they are small enough and place them inside a freezer for 2 weeks. This will kill any termites and you will then need to leave them in the bags for another 2 days once they are out of the freezer to warm up again. This will ensure that no moisture condenses on the wood which will cause mould.

When it comes to antiques, you should try to use any non chemical product wherever possible, and you can find an exterminator that offers chemical free fumigation using special green products like they use to treat wood in green building, this could be the best answer. These products are natural and do not pose any threat to the antique piece.

They will get rid of the termites without damaging the finish of the wood or that actual grain. You should also always use protection methods to ensure that you don’t get termites.

If your antique is stored in your attic or not displayed in your house, there is more chance of it getting termites. Rather, instead of hiding your antique, display it and ensure that it gets dusted regularly. If you don’t want to dust it too much, you can use a special antique cover, but having it out in the open rather than locked away amongst a whole lot of other items, is much better and will keep any bugs including termites away.

When you invest in an antique you want to make sure that it only gets more valuable and one way of preserving it is to make sure that you can find out everything you can about how to clean it, keep it free from dust and remove any musty smells that might have affected it over the years.

There are certain products that you should only use for antique furniture and you must be careful to maintain it property using the correct cleaning methods.

Aside from cleaning, general storage and maintenance techniques will ensure that your pieces are protected and don’t suffer from too much damage.

Here are some tips to show you how you can clean and store your antiques and keep them looking in mint condition.

Humidity and moisture

One of the worst things that you will find that damages antique furniture is humidity and moisture. These can cause cracks and moisture build up can cause rotting to occur in woods.

Exposure to fluctuations in heat and cold, or moisture will also cause a lot of damage over time, such as splitting and cracking. You can prevent this by making sure your antiques are in a controlled climate and are no standing in the sun, under windows, and in front or next to your fireplace. You can also use a humidifier to ensure that the climate is constant.

Sunlight

Sunlight causes a lot of damage, not only from the heat, but due to the fact that it fades and alters the colors of furniture. It will also cause damage to the finish of a piece, but it can be easily avoided by placing antiques away from direct sunlight or using UV filters on your windows where certain antiques are displayed.

Insects

Insects often like to nest and breed in furniture and this is a problem that is very serious. The damage that can be sustained all depends on the areas that you live in, but if you suspect that a piece might be damaged, you must not hesitate to take your furniture to a professional fumigation expert before the problem get worse, or the insects move on to other pieces in your home.

Chemicals or abrasive detergents

As far as cleaning is concerned, the safest way to clean your antiques is to not use any chemicals or abrasive detergents. Use prevention methods instead such as dust covers that are appropriate to use on antiques and if you have to dust or clean them, use only soft cloths and dusters that will not scratch the surface.

Sometimes a piece of furniture will be so filthy and have layer upon layer of residue built up from polishes and waxes that it becomes necessary to have it professionally cleaned. This will ensure that the natural grain of the wood is seen once gain and can get rid of any stains or marks that are ingrained it the old wax.

Using a toothbrush for certain furniture items can be helpful in getting rid of hard ingrained dirt within engravings and carvings.

Restoring Antique Furniture

For restoring antique furniture yourself that is old and ugly, you can use 2 different methods. One is warm water and a very mild dish-washing detergent to get rid of stains, old grime and oil marks, and the other is to use a mineral spirits or paint thinner to loosen stubborn dirt.

You can use these methods on both painted and clear finished woods, but you must be very careful. Always use a soft clean rag to dry as you wash, and never scrub too hard. The goal is to remove the dirt, not remove the finish.

When using the water method, never let the cloth become too wet, it must be almost dry.

Once the piece is clean you will find that the finish looks a bit dull, but all you need to bring it back to life is some chemical free beeswax polish.

Over time it is not unusual for the veneer on an antique table to be damaged. This can happen due to constant usage of harsh chemical cleansers or due to environmental factors or simply due to lack of care.

The tell tale signs of veneer damage include chipped, blistered or broken veneer or a long piece that is starting to peel.

There are many professional services which can help you with veneer replacement but they are usually quite expensive. Alternatively you could do it yourself at a considerably lower cost.

Assessing the amount of damage

Any attempt at veneer replacement should start by first assessing the amount of damage. If the veneer is in good shape but shows signs of peeling at the edges it can be reglued without too much trouble.

Remove the residual old glue

To start the process you will need to remove the residual old glue from the wooden surface as well as the back of the veneer. You can do so with the help of a sharp razor blade or a craft knife. The residual glue with interfere with the adhesion of the new glue and depending on the thickness may cause bumps on the surface of the veneer.

If you cannot get all the glue out with the knife you can use naptha or benzene to dissolve the old glue or use a sand paper with a fine grit. When doing this you need to be particularly careful with the veneer. Lifting or folding it too much may break it.

Reattach the veneer

Once the surface is clean you can either use contact cement or carpenter’s glue to reattach the veneer. If you are using contact cement apply it to both the surfaces the veneer as well as the wood and let it set as per manufacturer instructions.

However if you are using glue you need to use a brush to spread the glue and start pressing from the attached end outwards to avoid crimping and bumps.

Hold it in place

Once the surface is properly set use clamps or weight to hold it in place. You will need to keep the surface clamped for one or two days. Once the adhesive sets you can wax and polish the entire surface to bring out the brightness.

If You need to replace it

If the veneer is badly chipped or cracked you may want to consider replacing it. You many want to start by looking for the appropriate veneer.

There are many books available on restoring antique furniture and you may find clues on finding matching veneer in them. Alternatively there are many websites online that will help you to procure the right type of veneer.

The next step involves removing the original veneer and the glue surface. If you are not particularly confident with a sharp chisel you may want to go for the services of a professional establishment since any mistake will damage the wooden surface. A professional establishment will charge you on a per square feet basis.

An antique table needs all the loving care that you can give it. Instead of repairing the damage a better way is to prevent the damage so make it a point to clean and wax your antique table often.

With many antique pieces like desks, wardrobes, and tables, certain paints were used and glazed surfaces were in fashion. When you purchase an antique you might find that the paint is cracking and peeling and you want to refinish it yourself.

But how do you know what paints to use and how do you paint an antique without reducing its value?

Well, there are many items and products that you can use. The first and most basic thing to remember is to keep everything as organic and original as possible. Look in the history behind each period and find out what paints and finished were used in that periods of time.

Certain paints like milk paints were commonly used as they were made organically and do not have any chemicals and detergents that will harm the antique. When restoring an antique with paint, also try to use colors that would have been used at that time. The best thing is to use the same colors that the furniture was painted in when you purchased it, but if this was not the original either, then restore it using the best color that represents the era that the piece is from. Another type of paint you can use is eggshell paint that is mild and chemical free.

Another trick when painting your antique piece of furniture is to use soft brushes that will not scratch the wood or ruin the overall grain or style of the piece. Make sure that the paint is not too thick so that it detracts from the style and if you want you can also use a mild glaze to protect it and give it that correct look. Also make sure that these products are originals that might have been used in that specific time and not harsh chemical products.

Another way to get away with painting a piece of antique furniture if you really have to is to make it look like wood. If the wood is quite damaged and cannot be easily restored, then choose a wood stain or paint the same color as the original wood so that you can keep the original look of the antique and make it look better than before. This will ensure that you do not lower the value of the piece and rather improve its condition.

You should be careful when choosing the finish, to find one that is close to what would have been used at the time the item was made. This might be a natural wood oil, or natural wax like beeswax. Never use modern chemical products on an antique.

When looking to paint antique furniture, most experts will tell you not to. If you really want to refinish it or give it a new lease on life, if it was an originally painted piece, then rather take it to a professional who can do the job properly using the correct techniques, equipments, and paints.

Doing it yourself can be done, but is not recommended as you might not be able to use the methods correctly to get the correct effect once you are complete. A professional who paints antiques all the time will know exactly how to paint it correctly, how much to sand it by, when to stop painting, what to do to dry the paint correctly, and how to use the finishes in the most appropriate way.

Using these tips you can decide whether to paint your antique piece is really worth it or not. You must find out if painting it will add to its value or detract from it and depending on who much the piece is worth to begin with, you can make an informed decision when you want to paint an antique.

Beautiful antique furniture is a priceless possession and should you decide to sell it, you will find it fetches you a significant price.

If you have an antique chair piece and are wondering how to tell if it’s really unique, you need to do some tests on it, to determine this.

A piece of furniture is classified as antique, only when it is more than 100 years old or 150 years old. Furniture that is younger than this is not an antique piece.

If you have an antique chair how to tell if a chair is antique?

Check out the materials used to make it

In order to determine if your antique chair is really 100 to 150 years old, you have check out on the materials that have been used to make it.

Furniture that was made 100 years ago was done using cuts and polishes that are not what you see today. Much of American antique furniture was made using pine wood. The finish of the piece shows the difference and it is the finish that must be examined to determine the age of your antique chair piece.

Craftsmanship

One of the easiest ways on how to tell if a chair is antique is to look at the craftsmanship. Old antique furniture is definitely made by hand and machine cutting was introduced only in the 1860’s.

Furniture that is made by hand can be clearly made out in the way the edges are cut, in the shaping and in the joints. Joints will be dovetailed by hand.

You can find this out easily as they will be few in number and they won’t be evenly placed. If you see nicks and cuts on the furniture area, say in the sides or the bottom, it’s yet another indication that it was hand-made. Such cuts would have been done by spokeshave, or a plane and if you see straight saw marks is a sure indication that the furniture is an old piece.

Symmetry

The next point to check is the symmetry. It is not possible to get the perfect symmetry in hand-made furniture, though such differences are really hard-to-spot.

However, they do exist and you can see that pieces such as slats, rungs, rockers and so on, in the furniture piece are not uniform in their shape.

There is no perfect cutting here. When you look at reproductions of antique furniture, you will find them to be cut by machine and that’s why though they look just like the original, they can never replace the original because of the way they are made.

In old pieces of furniture, what is a main give-a-away is the size. With age, wood will shrink in size and this shows in the lack of uniformity in the piece’s dimensions, though you have to inspect the piece carefully to find this out.

Color differences

Another factor that shows age is color differences on the surface. This happens when it is exposed to sunlight in an uneven form. Another giving factor is hairline cracks, which can be found out only after clean inspection of the surface using a flashlight.

Check the finish

The final thing on how to tell if a chair is antique is to check is the finish. Antique pieces that are dated prior to the times of Queen Victoria have a Shellac Finish.

Sometimes you can also find them to have a French-polish finish which is another form of the Shellac Finish. Furniture that came after the mid 1800’s has a lacquer and varnish.

The best way to find out Shellac Finish is to test the furniture surface using denatured alcohol. After a small application, if the finish dissolves, it is made from Shellac.  Furniture pieces that are made prior to the 1850 also used oil, wax, or milk paint which can be determine by applying ammonia.

If you are wondering how to find the value of an antique table that is a family heirloom here are a few guidelines. The procedure will require patience and diligent research.

The value of an antique table depends on four factors the condition of the piece, the quality of workmanship, the provenance and the rarity of the piece.

But before you evaluate these four factors you need to determine if the antique table is really old or it has just been given a faux antique look.

An authentic antique will have certain traits that will make it stand out against a new piece of furniture. Antique furniture will not have sharp edges and corners simply due to its age. So just running your hand underneath or on the back of the table will reveal details about its age.

Distinctive curved pattern

Old wooden furniture will always carry distinctive curved pattern made by a circular saw. This is conspicuously seen in furniture manufactured after 1840.

Shape of the screws used

The next sign is the shape of the screws used. For this you will have to remove a screw that will not harm the structure of the table. Since machine made screws are fairly recent antique furniture will usually have screws with uneven spacing between the spirals; as opposed to this new screws will be pointed with regular spacing.

Veneer width

The same holds true for veneer width. New veneer is thin with regular width all over whereas its antique counterpart is considerably thicker. You can check for this at the edges of the table or at a part where the veneer is damaged and chipped.

Plastic or metal taps

Another visible sign is the use of plastic or metal taps attached to the legs of the table. These are usually a sign of a fairly recent make. Most antique tables will have reinforced pedestals and usually a tri- part metal strap or a metal disk will have been used for reinforcement. As opposed to this a new table will generally have a large crimped staple.

If the table has a glass top this may serve as another indication of the age of the table. Antique glass is thinner with irregular width and lacks the clarity and transparency of new glass.

Once you have ascertained that the table is indeed old you can avail the services of a professional appraiser to find the exact value or you could look for the following signs.

Keep Attention

If the furniture has visible cracks, breaks or other signs of wear and tear the value will obviously go down. You also need to pay special attention to the finish a well maintained table should look bright and have no dirt or stain marks.

If your table has a glass top a cracks and scratches will devalue it but the value will be substantially reduced if the original glass top has been replaced.

Ornate hand carved pieces particularly ones with cabriole legs will usually fetch a higher price. The same hold true for feet end that are carved or have brass paws.

If your furniture carries distinctive manufacturer stamps or marks you may be able to find the availability of similar pieces. Needless to say the rarer a table the higher will be its value. You will thoroughly check the table sometimes with a magnifying glass to spot such marks.

Of course the value of an antique table which has been a family heirloom may not just be monetary and may hold an immense amount of emotional and aesthetic appeal for you. As the old adage goes beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, in my opinion so does  value.