An armoire was once considered a very necessary piece of furniture in many homes. It wasn’t until the middle of the 20th century that architects began including more closets into their designs.

Although they haven’t been a necessary item in a long time, today, they’re a much cherished and loved piece of furniture.

If you have an antique armoire or are planning on purchasing one, there are several things that you can look at to

determine the time frame when an antique armoire was built.

You don’t need to hire a professional to get an approximate age of an antique.

First of all, you’ll want to determine whether or not the armoire is indeed an antique. And, there are a few simple clues that will establish that it is an older piece of furniture.

The majority of antiques were made entirely by hand, which means that they’re not completely perfect.

Types of wood

Most antiques will also be constructed of several types of wood. Because it didn’t make sense economically to use expensive types of wood in the areas that didn’t show, the bottoms, backs or insides are often made from cheaper woods such as pine or maple.

Reproductions tend to be made using the same wood from top to bottom.

Carved areas

If the armoire has any carved areas, run your finger along the edges. Antiques were all carved by hand and the carvings should feel slightly bumpy and uneven. If the lines are smooth and perfectly carved, it was done by a machine and is a good indicator that it’s a newer piece.

Signs of shrinkage and the wood darkens

Because wood contains a lot of water, an antique will show some signs of shrinkage and the wood darkens with age. Since thinner panels of wood shrink faster, the best place to look for this clue is around any edges of panels, such as in the door.

If the panels don’t completely fit against the frame, this could be a sign of shrinkage from age. However, you should also be able to notice that wood in the gaps between the panel and the frame are lighter in color than the rest of the frame.

And, there may also be splits or cracks on the armoire due to shrinkage.

Hinges, knobs or handles

Next you should carefully inspect the hardware such as hinges, knobs or handles. If the hardware is vintage, it will have a patina. Patina refers to the discoloration, usually a greenish color caused by oxidation and is a good sign of age.

The wood around the hardware should also be darker due to oxidation.

There are two main ways that almost anyone can determine an approximate date of when an antique armoire was built. You can usually get a good idea from the way the wood was cut and how the armoire was put together.

The way in which the piece is put together is very important in determining age.

Signs of saw marks

Inspect the armoire for any signs of saw marks, generally on the back or the underside. If the marks are straight, but irregular, it indicates that the piece was built prior to 1830. Around 1830, most wood was cut by a sawmill which left straight, more even marks.

The circular saw wasn’t invented until around 1850. So, if there are cuts that have a circular shape, the piece was made after 1850. Also, run your hand over the exposed surfaces of the wood.

Antiques were all sanded by hand and the surface should feel slightly uneven and not completely smooth.

Nails and screws

Another very good indication of age is the nails and screws that were used in the armoire. During the 1700′s, blacksmiths forged nails individually. After the nail was shaped, it was placed into a heading tool and struck several times with a hammer to form the square head.

Between 1790 and 1890, cut nails were commonly used. And, beginning around 1880, nails were produced by machines and had round shaped heads. Screws were all handmade up until around 1815. The head slot was cut by hand and were rarely cut straight across the center of the flat screw head.

In antique furniture which dates back more than 100 years, there are various styles that you can find and if you know what to look out for, you can identify antiques from replicas and reproduction pieces. This will allow you to make an informed choice when going furniture shopping for antique pieces, or determine how much to pay for a piece of furniture that you think is antique.

Looking at how old a chair, wardrobe or desk is, you can look at the wood that was used, the type of joinery, the saw markings, the hidden pieces on the furniture, the carvings, the style, and the finishes. With some elements like the styling and decorative features, it can be harder to tell how old a piece is, as there are many reproduction pieces and design features that were used over many eras.

There are lots of styles that you can choose from and they all have distinguishing markings and features. Usually you will find pieces that are limited to the America Colonial and Traditional English periods at garage sales and in second hand shops, and in some hip boutique hotels like britannia hotel manchester or Andy Thorton. However, if you want to find the genuine Louis the XV chair you will have to go to a professional dealer or antiques fair (I suggest You to have a look here: What antique furniture .com) .

Looking at the styles you get, the older English pieces are categorized into Queen Anne, Georgian Chippendale, Georgian Adam, Georgian Hepplewhite, Late 18th Century, Georgian Sheraton, and Regency.

In the American Colonial styles you get the Early Colonial, Late Colonial, Federal, Pennsylvania Dutch, and the Shaker furniture. Here you will find more detail about what each style consists of:

English pieces

Queen Anne – This style comes from the early 18th century, and is mainly made from walnut, cherry-wood, oak, mahogany, and maple. These pieces normally consist of lots of curves which are graceful and plenty of curved legs, there were no rungs or any kinds of stretchers used, and they were simple and elegant with not too much decoration.

Georgian Chippendale – This style dates back to the late 18th century, and was predominantly made from mahogany. They are a slight elaboration from the Queen Anne style with more ornate carvings and features, many of which were quite bold. Many themes were also used such as Chinese, Rococo, English, and Greek Classic. The chair backs were especially intricate.

Georgian Adam – Also dating to the late 18th century, and also using mainly mahogany, the Georgian Adam used slender lines and was influenced mainly by Greek Classical styles. As such, fluted columns were used frequently and delicate carvings were introduced, like the draped garlands which were a favored design.

Georgian Hepplewhite – This style is from the late 18th century, and uses mahogany and satinwood inlays or veneer. This style was based on the Adam, with tapered legs, and oval, heart, or shield shaped backs of chairs.

Georgian Sheraton – Also from the late 18th century, made from mahogany, this is similar to the Hepplewhite, only straighter lines were used and the Classic Greek influence saw lyre shaped chair backs.

Regency – Dating to the early 19th century, mahogany was favored and the designs were bold, simple, and more functional, with colors being used.

American Colonial stylesEarly Colonial

Dating to the 17th century, this style used maple, pine, birch, and walnut with heavy decorations and carvings. These were solid constructions and lots of square lines were used.

Late Colonial – From the 18th century, this style used mainly pine and mahogany, and the pieces were interpretations of the English Georgian and Queen Anne styles. One example is the Windsor Chair.

Federal – This dates to the early 19th century and used woods like mahogany and cherry. These were interpretations of the Georgian styles with some French influence and are heavier than the English styles. Examples are the Hitchcock Chari and the Boston rocker.

Pennsylvania Dutch – This style is from the late 17th century to mid-19th and used pine, maple, walnut, and fruit woods. They are plain Germanic styled pieces and are solid and usually painted colorfully with Germanic decorations.

Shaker – This dates from the late 18th century to the mid-19th century with pieces being made from pine and maple. They are very functional with no decoration but of excellent design and craftsmanship.

With many antique pieces like desks, wardrobes, and tables, certain paints were used and glazed surfaces were in fashion. When you purchase an antique you might find that the paint is cracking and peeling and you want to refinish it yourself.

But how do you know what paints to use and how do you paint an antique without reducing its value?

Well, there are many items and products that you can use. The first and most basic thing to remember is to keep everything as organic and original as possible. Look in the history behind each period and find out what paints and finished were used in that periods of time.

Certain paints like milk paints were commonly used as they were made organically and do not have any chemicals and detergents that will harm the antique. When restoring an antique with paint, also try to use colors that would have been used at that time. The best thing is to use the same colors that the furniture was painted in when you purchased it, but if this was not the original either, then restore it using the best color that represents the era that the piece is from. Another type of paint you can use is eggshell paint that is mild and chemical free.

Another trick when painting your antique piece of furniture is to use soft brushes that will not scratch the wood or ruin the overall grain or style of the piece. Make sure that the paint is not too thick so that it detracts from the style and if you want you can also use a mild glaze to protect it and give it that correct look. Also make sure that these products are originals that might have been used in that specific time and not harsh chemical products.

Another way to get away with painting a piece of antique furniture if you really have to is to make it look like wood. If the wood is quite damaged and cannot be easily restored, then choose a wood stain or paint the same color as the original wood so that you can keep the original look of the antique and make it look better than before. This will ensure that you do not lower the value of the piece and rather improve its condition.

You should be careful when choosing the finish, to find one that is close to what would have been used at the time the item was made. This might be a natural wood oil, or natural wax like beeswax. Never use modern chemical products on an antique.

When looking to paint antique furniture, most experts will tell you not to. If you really want to refinish it or give it a new lease on life, if it was an originally painted piece, then rather take it to a professional who can do the job properly using the correct techniques, equipments, and paints.

Doing it yourself can be done, but is not recommended as you might not be able to use the methods correctly to get the correct effect once you are complete. A professional who paints antiques all the time will know exactly how to paint it correctly, how much to sand it by, when to stop painting, what to do to dry the paint correctly, and how to use the finishes in the most appropriate way.

Using these tips you can decide whether to paint your antique piece is really worth it or not. You must find out if painting it will add to its value or detract from it and depending on who much the piece is worth to begin with, you can make an informed decision when you want to paint an antique.

Beautiful antique furniture is a priceless possession and should you decide to sell it, you will find it fetches you a significant price.

If you have an antique chair piece and are wondering how to tell if it’s really unique, you need to do some tests on it, to determine this.

A piece of furniture is classified as antique, only when it is more than 100 years old or 150 years old. Furniture that is younger than this is not an antique piece.

If you have an antique chair how to tell if a chair is antique?

Check out the materials used to make it

In order to determine if your antique chair is really 100 to 150 years old, you have check out on the materials that have been used to make it.

Furniture that was made 100 years ago was done using cuts and polishes that are not what you see today. Much of American antique furniture was made using pine wood. The finish of the piece shows the difference and it is the finish that must be examined to determine the age of your antique chair piece.

Craftsmanship

One of the easiest ways on how to tell if a chair is antique is to look at the craftsmanship. Old antique furniture is definitely made by hand and machine cutting was introduced only in the 1860’s.

Furniture that is made by hand can be clearly made out in the way the edges are cut, in the shaping and in the joints. Joints will be dovetailed by hand.

You can find this out easily as they will be few in number and they won’t be evenly placed. If you see nicks and cuts on the furniture area, say in the sides or the bottom, it’s yet another indication that it was hand-made. Such cuts would have been done by spokeshave, or a plane and if you see straight saw marks is a sure indication that the furniture is an old piece.

Symmetry

The next point to check is the symmetry. It is not possible to get the perfect symmetry in hand-made furniture, though such differences are really hard-to-spot.

However, they do exist and you can see that pieces such as slats, rungs, rockers and so on, in the furniture piece are not uniform in their shape.

There is no perfect cutting here. When you look at reproductions of antique furniture, you will find them to be cut by machine and that’s why though they look just like the original, they can never replace the original because of the way they are made.

In old pieces of furniture, what is a main give-a-away is the size. With age, wood will shrink in size and this shows in the lack of uniformity in the piece’s dimensions, though you have to inspect the piece carefully to find this out.

Color differences

Another factor that shows age is color differences on the surface. This happens when it is exposed to sunlight in an uneven form. Another giving factor is hairline cracks, which can be found out only after clean inspection of the surface using a flashlight.

Check the finish

The final thing on how to tell if a chair is antique is to check is the finish. Antique pieces that are dated prior to the times of Queen Victoria have a Shellac Finish.

Sometimes you can also find them to have a French-polish finish which is another form of the Shellac Finish. Furniture that came after the mid 1800’s has a lacquer and varnish.

The best way to find out Shellac Finish is to test the furniture surface using denatured alcohol. After a small application, if the finish dissolves, it is made from Shellac.  Furniture pieces that are made prior to the 1850 also used oil, wax, or milk paint which can be determine by applying ammonia.

If you are wondering how to find the value of an antique table that is a family heirloom here are a few guidelines. The procedure will require patience and diligent research.

The value of an antique table depends on four factors the condition of the piece, the quality of workmanship, the provenance and the rarity of the piece.

But before you evaluate these four factors you need to determine if the antique table is really old or it has just been given a faux antique look.

An authentic antique will have certain traits that will make it stand out against a new piece of furniture. Antique furniture will not have sharp edges and corners simply due to its age. So just running your hand underneath or on the back of the table will reveal details about its age.

Distinctive curved pattern

Old wooden furniture will always carry distinctive curved pattern made by a circular saw. This is conspicuously seen in furniture manufactured after 1840.

Shape of the screws used

The next sign is the shape of the screws used. For this you will have to remove a screw that will not harm the structure of the table. Since machine made screws are fairly recent antique furniture will usually have screws with uneven spacing between the spirals; as opposed to this new screws will be pointed with regular spacing.

Veneer width

The same holds true for veneer width. New veneer is thin with regular width all over whereas its antique counterpart is considerably thicker. You can check for this at the edges of the table or at a part where the veneer is damaged and chipped.

Plastic or metal taps

Another visible sign is the use of plastic or metal taps attached to the legs of the table. These are usually a sign of a fairly recent make. Most antique tables will have reinforced pedestals and usually a tri- part metal strap or a metal disk will have been used for reinforcement. As opposed to this a new table will generally have a large crimped staple.

If the table has a glass top this may serve as another indication of the age of the table. Antique glass is thinner with irregular width and lacks the clarity and transparency of new glass.

Once you have ascertained that the table is indeed old you can avail the services of a professional appraiser to find the exact value or you could look for the following signs.

Keep Attention

If the furniture has visible cracks, breaks or other signs of wear and tear the value will obviously go down. You also need to pay special attention to the finish a well maintained table should look bright and have no dirt or stain marks.

If your table has a glass top a cracks and scratches will devalue it but the value will be substantially reduced if the original glass top has been replaced.

Ornate hand carved pieces particularly ones with cabriole legs will usually fetch a higher price. The same hold true for feet end that are carved or have brass paws.

If your furniture carries distinctive manufacturer stamps or marks you may be able to find the availability of similar pieces. Needless to say the rarer a table the higher will be its value. You will thoroughly check the table sometimes with a magnifying glass to spot such marks.

Of course the value of an antique table which has been a family heirloom may not just be monetary and may hold an immense amount of emotional and aesthetic appeal for you. As the old adage goes beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, in my opinion so does  value.

People who own an antique table know how difficult it is to refinish and clean it. Since it is an expensive piece of furniture a small mistake can prove detrimental and may end up reducing its value financially and aesthetically.

So here are a few easy tips that you can follow while refinishing or cleaning your antique tables.

Cleaning:

The most important thing to remember while cleaning antique furniture is to not use material that will damage or stain the paint or veneer.

The dirt and grime that accumulates on antique furniture over time can be attributed to the oil that we leave behind from our skin and from our cooking. This combines with the dust particles in the environment to form a layer of dirt on the surface.

Gilded

If your table has areas that are gilded (use gold or silver leaf) you need to be particularly careful because these areas are easily prone to damage. All you can do here is lightly dust these parts with a very soft dry cloth or a soft brush. But before you attempt cleaning the visible areas always try out your ministration on a hidden part to check for unfavorable reaction

Wooden

The wooden or veneer surface will usually have some water soluble dirt and stains accumulated. You will need to use a mild soapy solution to clean this part.

The soap that you use should preferably be liquid dish washing soap that is mild, using a detergent soap or the dish washing bar may damage the furniture. When cleaning soak a soft cotton cloth in a little but of the solution and wipe the surface gently with it.

Avoid using the solution on parts where the veneer is chipped or the surface is already damaged. If you feel the soap solution is not giving you the desired results than you can go for a stronger chemical solution. The best choice would be to opt for a phosphate free TSP solution which is readily available at most hardware stores.

Paint

If the area that you are trying to clean seems particularly sticky this may be caused due to lacquer damage and trying to clean hard will just damage the paint or stained wood underneath. So you need to stop cleaning with a water based solution immediately if you see the finish disappearing since the water based solution will cause the wood to swell.

A solvent based solution will be a safer option in this case. Naphtha which is a good choice is available in most hardware stores. You just need to be careful while using it since it has a very strong odor and should be used with gloves and in an open space. It is important to always use a soft cloth simply because a synthetic or metal scrub will remove the finish.

Once you are done cleaning the surface should look bright and should not have any stain marks. If the surface looks scratched you can use paste wax to brighten it