An armoire was once considered a very necessary piece of furniture in many homes. It wasn’t until the middle of the 20th century that architects began including more closets into their designs.

Although they haven’t been a necessary item in a long time, today, they’re a much cherished and loved piece of furniture.

If you have an antique armoire or are planning on purchasing one, there are several things that you can look at to

determine the time frame when an antique armoire was built.

You don’t need to hire a professional to get an approximate age of an antique.

First of all, you’ll want to determine whether or not the armoire is indeed an antique. And, there are a few simple clues that will establish that it is an older piece of furniture.

The majority of antiques were made entirely by hand, which means that they’re not completely perfect.

Types of wood

Most antiques will also be constructed of several types of wood. Because it didn’t make sense economically to use expensive types of wood in the areas that didn’t show, the bottoms, backs or insides are often made from cheaper woods such as pine or maple.

Reproductions tend to be made using the same wood from top to bottom.

Carved areas

If the armoire has any carved areas, run your finger along the edges. Antiques were all carved by hand and the carvings should feel slightly bumpy and uneven. If the lines are smooth and perfectly carved, it was done by a machine and is a good indicator that it’s a newer piece.

Signs of shrinkage and the wood darkens

Because wood contains a lot of water, an antique will show some signs of shrinkage and the wood darkens with age. Since thinner panels of wood shrink faster, the best place to look for this clue is around any edges of panels, such as in the door.

If the panels don’t completely fit against the frame, this could be a sign of shrinkage from age. However, you should also be able to notice that wood in the gaps between the panel and the frame are lighter in color than the rest of the frame.

And, there may also be splits or cracks on the armoire due to shrinkage.

Hinges, knobs or handles

Next you should carefully inspect the hardware such as hinges, knobs or handles. If the hardware is vintage, it will have a patina. Patina refers to the discoloration, usually a greenish color caused by oxidation and is a good sign of age.

The wood around the hardware should also be darker due to oxidation.

There are two main ways that almost anyone can determine an approximate date of when an antique armoire was built. You can usually get a good idea from the way the wood was cut and how the armoire was put together.

The way in which the piece is put together is very important in determining age.

Signs of saw marks

Inspect the armoire for any signs of saw marks, generally on the back or the underside. If the marks are straight, but irregular, it indicates that the piece was built prior to 1830. Around 1830, most wood was cut by a sawmill which left straight, more even marks.

The circular saw wasn’t invented until around 1850. So, if there are cuts that have a circular shape, the piece was made after 1850. Also, run your hand over the exposed surfaces of the wood.

Antiques were all sanded by hand and the surface should feel slightly uneven and not completely smooth.

Nails and screws

Another very good indication of age is the nails and screws that were used in the armoire. During the 1700’s, blacksmiths forged nails individually. After the nail was shaped, it was placed into a heading tool and struck several times with a hammer to form the square head.

Between 1790 and 1890, cut nails were commonly used. And, beginning around 1880, nails were produced by machines and had round shaped heads. Screws were all handmade up until around 1815. The head slot was cut by hand and were rarely cut straight across the center of the flat screw head.

I’m posting a mail sent by Leslie…

I just purchased a kitchen hutch or cupboard. It looks to me like it was produced in Kansas City Missouri. It says Union Made on the back of it with the number 44. It is a cream color with two glass covered doors and red accent painted or stenciled on the inside of the glass doors.

It does have one drawer below with a red drawer pull and two small wooden doors with red door pulls below that. Also, has 1P51A8 I believe stamped on the back.

Can anyone help me to identify it’s age and tell me anything about it?

I purchased this piece at an estate sale in Arkansas this weeked. This was supposed to be her mother’s piece and I believe she stated it came from her mother’s home before that.

The daughter was about mid 60’s in age so maybe this would help you with age or date produced… It looks like it is either 40’s or 50’s to me but I really don’t know a lot about it besides that. I took a picture of the front of the cabinet and the two stamp marks located on the back of the piece. It says it was Union Made in Kansas City Missouri with the number 44. Also, has a possible part number listed on the back of the piece. I took a picture of that also for you.

On the knobs and the drawer pulls they are a type of plastic maybe melamine?

They have a small metal star in the center of the knobs and on each side of the drawer pull anchoring it through the wood. It is wood construction with glass in the top door and it has two red stencled type decoration painted from the inside of the glass door. If you could tell me what it was called or maybe when it was produced or by whom it was produced that would be awesome.

I appreciate any info you could provide.

Thanks in advance,
Leslie Jackson

John Henry Belter, born in 1804, is well known in the furniture and cabinet making industry for being an innovative designer and is famous for his rosewood furniture, and Rococo designs.

This was a new wood used in making furniture that Belter used predominantly. He came from Germany and replaced the famous Duncan Phyfe who had made furniture in New York for almost half a century.

Belter made mostly Louis XV reproductions and his unique style was known as the early Victorian. This style that he developed consisted of using limited rosewood to create bold carvings and concaved chair backs.

From 1884 to about 1865, he created drawing room suites for rich New Yorkers. This was his trademark and each piece distinctly had the finger molded cabriole legs that became famous during that period of time.

There are many pieces of John Henry Belter’s furniture still in circulation today including sofas, a few lady armchairs, some side chairs, an ottoman, an intricate oval table, and a child’s chair. You can easily see a Belter design because of the laminated chair backs that he used.

This was made into a concave shape by using 6 to 8 pieces of thin rosewood layers which were then glued together. He also used various scroll and floral motifs will a rose or shell crest on the back of the chair. The center of the chair was usually upholstered and framed with a carved rosewood border with braiding, scroll or rose bud designs. The backs of all the chairs in Belter’s collection were always done in a plain rosewood panel.

John Henry Belter started his furniture business at 40 Chatham Square when he arrived in America in 1833, but moved a few years later to 327 Broadway and then in 1855 he set up his business in the larger premises of 1222 Third Avenue.

This is where he stayed until his death in 1865. Not only is Belter renowned for his unique style of furniture making, but he even worked closely with piano maker who founded the Steinway Piano Firm to help him create rosewood piano cases that are still used today and are the basic design of a grand piano, with rounded edges to soften the sharp edges of the instrument, and large, heavy cabriole legs to hold the weight of them.

A few years before his death, Belter destroyed all of his designs to ensure that no one could copy them, and this is also one of the reasons that Belter original are so hard to find and that they are very expensive if you do find them. The workers that John Henry Belter used were always from his home country Germany, in the Black Forest region of Alsace-Lorraine, and trained in lace like knife work and deep cut carvings. He considered them to be the best and most skillful carvers and would not use any other workers to carve his furniture.

John Henry Belter was a legend in the cabinetry industry and his furniture fetches huge prices today.  He is one of the innovators and designers that shaped the history of furniture making and is considered by many to be a pioneer. The laminating method that he used was a secret for many, many years, but eventually he did patent it in 1858. He will always be considered as one of the greats and a masterful furniture maker of the early Victorian era.

If you have a beautiful piece of antique furniture, but the furniture is really not showing its best or if some parts are coming off, you have to take steps to restore and repair it.

Restoring and repairing antique furniture through a set of processes helps to bring back the look and appeal of the original piece.

The process of restoring and repairing antique furniture must be done really carefully because in no way should you ruin the antique quality of the piece. So, modern furniture fixing products cannot be used. Let’s take a closer look on how to restore an antique wood chair and also make minor repairs.

1° Light dust cleaning

Begin the process of repairing your antique chair by giving it a light dust cleaning. This gives you a clean work area on which you can work better.

If your chair has any carvings, you would need a toothbrush to get the dirt out of that area. Some people resort to using steel wood pad, but the problem with using it is that it might remove the painted finish that is applied to such types of old furniture. So, the only alternative is to use toothbrush for areas which have carvings and for edges and use a soft cloth to clean the remaining areas.

2° Stripp off its old finish

Now how do you refinish antique chair? First the chair is ready to be stripped off its old finish.

In order to do this you require using a semi-paste stripper. You have to apply it using a paintbrush and you should apply it evenly, but not overdo the thing.

After two or three minutes from application, gently scrape it off the surface and you can see the old finish coming off.

3° Apply lacquer

The next step is to apply lacquer as this helps to neutralize the work of the stripper.

4° Remove old stains

Now comes the part where you have to remove old stains. You need to use oxalic acid for this purpose. Follow the instructions on how to a use it and apply with a paintbrush on all areas where stains have to be removed.  After it has been applied on the surface, it leaves a powdery reside, which should be cleaned off using warm water and a sponge.

Looking into minor repairs

The next aspect is looking into minor repairs. If you find any small joints to be missing or if a leg is wobbly, you need to find replacement parts to get it into proper condition again.

The problem here is that you have to buy the exact replica of the original, otherwise your furniture won’t be an antique piece at all.

So, check out online sites and shops that specialize in offering such parts and finish your minor repair work.

Gluing for fixing

While repairing, you might also find that some parts need gluing for fixing. Do not use any of the modern glue products in the market. These once again replace the antique value of your chair. Go in for hide glue, because this is the kind of glue that was used in the making of these chairs and you have to use the same ones. If you can’t find one in your area, order it online.

In case of major repairing, unless you are experienced in building wood furniture, you cannot do it yourself as the process of fixing such broken pieces is quite complicated.

Therefore, find a professional antique furniture repair shop, to get the job properly done by a professional, otherwise you might land up doing something that reduces the original look of the piece and hence its value.

Look into these points on how to restore antique wood chair and you can be sure of repairing your antique chair so that it get’s back its original look and appeal. Remember since materials used in its making date back to more than a century, using any replacement parts will reduce the value of the piece.

When you have an insect infestation in your antique wood furniture, like termites, this is a serious problem that must be dealt with effectively and efficiently if you hope to maintain the value of your piece and ensure that the problem doesn’t spread to other antiques that you have.

Termites are not a common problem when it comes to antique furniture, but depending on the location of the furniture and how long it was left unprotected, termites can easily move in and infest your precious antiques. So, what do you do to get rid of them?
Well, the first and most obvious answer is to take the piece of furniture to a pest control expert and fumigation specialist who deals in antique pieces.

They will be able to successfully get rid of the termites and any eggs that have still not hatched in the item without damaging the piece or reducing its value in any way. If there is already significant damage due to termites, your antique wood furniture might need to be restored and fixed to remove the holes and get it back to its original state.

To avoid doing certain things and taking care of your antiques correctly is the easiest way to get rid of termites before they even become a problem.

One thing that you must do is be careful of where you place your items. Termites like water and so placing it in a position that gets moist very quickly will attract them. Not only this, but the moisture can also damage your antique in other ways.

Checking your house for termites often will prevent them from nesting in the first place. If you find that there are small exit holes where termites or other bugs have been, you can take the item (if it is just a drawer for example) and place it inside a bag along with the appropriate poison for about 2 weeks.

Another way to get rid of bugs and termites that you think are inside your piece of antique furniture is to bag the items, if they are small enough and place them inside a freezer for 2 weeks. This will kill any termites and you will then need to leave them in the bags for another 2 days once they are out of the freezer to warm up again. This will ensure that no moisture condenses on the wood which will cause mould.

When it comes to antiques, you should try to use any non chemical product wherever possible, and you can find an exterminator that offers chemical free fumigation using special green products like they use to treat wood in green building, this could be the best answer. These products are natural and do not pose any threat to the antique piece.

They will get rid of the termites without damaging the finish of the wood or that actual grain. You should also always use protection methods to ensure that you don’t get termites.

If your antique is stored in your attic or not displayed in your house, there is more chance of it getting termites. Rather, instead of hiding your antique, display it and ensure that it gets dusted regularly. If you don’t want to dust it too much, you can use a special antique cover, but having it out in the open rather than locked away amongst a whole lot of other items, is much better and will keep any bugs including termites away.

There are various types of furniture that you can get in all different styles dating back hundreds of years, but how can you tell which pieces are the real McCoy, and which ones are replicas, or later models?

Also, when is a piece of furniture classified as an antique, vintage, or just old?

Well here some things that you can look out for when you want to buy an antique or sell one that you think is an antique so that you don’t get taken for a ride:

When looking at a piece of furniture there are certain categories that yours can fall under. The first is second hand furniture, which is dated from the 1920’s through to the 1950’s and many people do mistake these styles for antiques, as many designs were reused during this time.

True antiques are more than 100 years old are found in the following conditions. Then you get utilitarian furniture, which are old pieces that are ideal for everyday use, but that museums have no interest in such as joint stools and dry sinks.

The next category is the decorative, which are items that are intricate and usually better quality than furniture of today, normally Louis XIV revival, or Baker furniture.

Then you get the museum pieces which are too fragile to be used and are just displayed as part a collection. These are normally medieval, French, Tudor style or Louis XIV.

When you are looking to buy an antique there are many things that you must look for and if you are not sure about where to start or if you are concerned that you are looking at a replication and not the real thing, then you should get an appraisal expert to help you.

Sometimes you will also find true antiques sitting in your grandmother’s attic or perhaps a local second hand store will have something antique that they don’t know the true value of. This is the perfect time to buy as you will be making a sold investment. When you choose to buy something antique, however, remember to always look for the quality of the piece and if it needs to be refinished find out exactly what needs to be done first.

As mentioned above a true antique is more than 100 years old, but some stores value furniture older than 50 years as antique and fine antique dealers will label items antique if they are more than 150 years old. The best way to find out is get the exact age of the piece.

The value of the piece will be determined by various factors including the artistry, the conditions of the piece, and the country it comes from. Most antiques you will find come from England and France, but this will also depend on where you are located. In the West people consider antiques any pieces that came across the mountains, in the East, the Queen Anne furniture are considered antiques, while in the South of America, an antique is something dating back to before the Civil War.

When looking at antiques you will not find any pieces (or maybe very few) that are originals from the 1500 or 1600, but you will find genuine reproduction pieces from this era which are also very valuable. To spot an antique you can also look at various things like the joinery. You will be able to tell if a machine was used or not, and machine made furniture was not made until the 1860’s.  You can also look at the saw marks, because any rounded or circular markings could not have been made until this time as well. Before 1860 a plane, drawknife, or spokeshave was used which all cause straight saw markings.

Over time it is not unusual for the veneer on an antique table to be damaged. This can happen due to constant usage of harsh chemical cleansers or due to environmental factors or simply due to lack of care.

The tell tale signs of veneer damage include chipped, blistered or broken veneer or a long piece that is starting to peel.

There are many professional services which can help you with veneer replacement but they are usually quite expensive. Alternatively you could do it yourself at a considerably lower cost.

Assessing the amount of damage

Any attempt at veneer replacement should start by first assessing the amount of damage. If the veneer is in good shape but shows signs of peeling at the edges it can be reglued without too much trouble.

Remove the residual old glue

To start the process you will need to remove the residual old glue from the wooden surface as well as the back of the veneer. You can do so with the help of a sharp razor blade or a craft knife. The residual glue with interfere with the adhesion of the new glue and depending on the thickness may cause bumps on the surface of the veneer.

If you cannot get all the glue out with the knife you can use naptha or benzene to dissolve the old glue or use a sand paper with a fine grit. When doing this you need to be particularly careful with the veneer. Lifting or folding it too much may break it.

Reattach the veneer

Once the surface is clean you can either use contact cement or carpenter’s glue to reattach the veneer. If you are using contact cement apply it to both the surfaces the veneer as well as the wood and let it set as per manufacturer instructions.

However if you are using glue you need to use a brush to spread the glue and start pressing from the attached end outwards to avoid crimping and bumps.

Hold it in place

Once the surface is properly set use clamps or weight to hold it in place. You will need to keep the surface clamped for one or two days. Once the adhesive sets you can wax and polish the entire surface to bring out the brightness.

If You need to replace it

If the veneer is badly chipped or cracked you may want to consider replacing it. You many want to start by looking for the appropriate veneer.

There are many books available on restoring antique furniture and you may find clues on finding matching veneer in them. Alternatively there are many websites online that will help you to procure the right type of veneer.

The next step involves removing the original veneer and the glue surface. If you are not particularly confident with a sharp chisel you may want to go for the services of a professional establishment since any mistake will damage the wooden surface. A professional establishment will charge you on a per square feet basis.

An antique table needs all the loving care that you can give it. Instead of repairing the damage a better way is to prevent the damage so make it a point to clean and wax your antique table often.

With many antique pieces like desks, wardrobes, and tables, certain paints were used and glazed surfaces were in fashion. When you purchase an antique you might find that the paint is cracking and peeling and you want to refinish it yourself.

But how do you know what paints to use and how do you paint an antique without reducing its value?

Well, there are many items and products that you can use. The first and most basic thing to remember is to keep everything as organic and original as possible. Look in the history behind each period and find out what paints and finished were used in that periods of time.

Certain paints like milk paints were commonly used as they were made organically and do not have any chemicals and detergents that will harm the antique. When restoring an antique with paint, also try to use colors that would have been used at that time. The best thing is to use the same colors that the furniture was painted in when you purchased it, but if this was not the original either, then restore it using the best color that represents the era that the piece is from. Another type of paint you can use is eggshell paint that is mild and chemical free.

Another trick when painting your antique piece of furniture is to use soft brushes that will not scratch the wood or ruin the overall grain or style of the piece. Make sure that the paint is not too thick so that it detracts from the style and if you want you can also use a mild glaze to protect it and give it that correct look. Also make sure that these products are originals that might have been used in that specific time and not harsh chemical products.

Another way to get away with painting a piece of antique furniture if you really have to is to make it look like wood. If the wood is quite damaged and cannot be easily restored, then choose a wood stain or paint the same color as the original wood so that you can keep the original look of the antique and make it look better than before. This will ensure that you do not lower the value of the piece and rather improve its condition.

You should be careful when choosing the finish, to find one that is close to what would have been used at the time the item was made. This might be a natural wood oil, or natural wax like beeswax. Never use modern chemical products on an antique.

When looking to paint antique furniture, most experts will tell you not to. If you really want to refinish it or give it a new lease on life, if it was an originally painted piece, then rather take it to a professional who can do the job properly using the correct techniques, equipments, and paints.

Doing it yourself can be done, but is not recommended as you might not be able to use the methods correctly to get the correct effect once you are complete. A professional who paints antiques all the time will know exactly how to paint it correctly, how much to sand it by, when to stop painting, what to do to dry the paint correctly, and how to use the finishes in the most appropriate way.

Using these tips you can decide whether to paint your antique piece is really worth it or not. You must find out if painting it will add to its value or detract from it and depending on who much the piece is worth to begin with, you can make an informed decision when you want to paint an antique.

If you are wondering how to find the value of an antique table that is a family heirloom here are a few guidelines. The procedure will require patience and diligent research.

The value of an antique table depends on four factors the condition of the piece, the quality of workmanship, the provenance and the rarity of the piece.

But before you evaluate these four factors you need to determine if the antique table is really old or it has just been given a faux antique look.

An authentic antique will have certain traits that will make it stand out against a new piece of furniture. Antique furniture will not have sharp edges and corners simply due to its age. So just running your hand underneath or on the back of the table will reveal details about its age.

Distinctive curved pattern

Old wooden furniture will always carry distinctive curved pattern made by a circular saw. This is conspicuously seen in furniture manufactured after 1840.

Shape of the screws used

The next sign is the shape of the screws used. For this you will have to remove a screw that will not harm the structure of the table. Since machine made screws are fairly recent antique furniture will usually have screws with uneven spacing between the spirals; as opposed to this new screws will be pointed with regular spacing.

Veneer width

The same holds true for veneer width. New veneer is thin with regular width all over whereas its antique counterpart is considerably thicker. You can check for this at the edges of the table or at a part where the veneer is damaged and chipped.

Plastic or metal taps

Another visible sign is the use of plastic or metal taps attached to the legs of the table. These are usually a sign of a fairly recent make. Most antique tables will have reinforced pedestals and usually a tri- part metal strap or a metal disk will have been used for reinforcement. As opposed to this a new table will generally have a large crimped staple.

If the table has a glass top this may serve as another indication of the age of the table. Antique glass is thinner with irregular width and lacks the clarity and transparency of new glass.

Once you have ascertained that the table is indeed old you can avail the services of a professional appraiser to find the exact value or you could look for the following signs.

Keep Attention

If the furniture has visible cracks, breaks or other signs of wear and tear the value will obviously go down. You also need to pay special attention to the finish a well maintained table should look bright and have no dirt or stain marks.

If your table has a glass top a cracks and scratches will devalue it but the value will be substantially reduced if the original glass top has been replaced.

Ornate hand carved pieces particularly ones with cabriole legs will usually fetch a higher price. The same hold true for feet end that are carved or have brass paws.

If your furniture carries distinctive manufacturer stamps or marks you may be able to find the availability of similar pieces. Needless to say the rarer a table the higher will be its value. You will thoroughly check the table sometimes with a magnifying glass to spot such marks.

Of course the value of an antique table which has been a family heirloom may not just be monetary and may hold an immense amount of emotional and aesthetic appeal for you. As the old adage goes beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, in my opinion so does  value.

Valuing old and antique furniture is something that not everyone knows how to do and normally if you want to sell or buy a piece, you look to the expertise of a dealer or appraiser to give you an accurate valuation.

For those that do want to start learning about antiques and how they are valued, however, here are some tips that you can use when you are at the next antiques fair or visiting your local antique store. You can also learn about valuation techniques to help you discover more about the pieces you have and what they might be worth before you even take it to a shop to sell or to a dealer.

The first thing to look for is if the piece has a stamp of mark of the manufacturer. Usually pieces that have marks will be worth more than ones that don’t. You should carefully scrutinize your piece with a magnifying glass to make sure that you don’t miss any small markings. In the case of painted furniture you can also look for an artist’s signature which will help a great deal in valuing the piece.

Next you must look at the condition of the piece of furniture. Simply finding a price in an antique guide is not enough. If the piece that you have located is not in the same condition as your piece you cannot make a comparison. You will have to do some more research and see how many flaws there are including any cracks, chips, scratches, and excessive wear and tear like water damage, tears, staining, or broken legs, spindles, etc.

The next thing you can check when valuing a piece is if it is common piece or a rare item. If an item of furniture is very rare, then it will be worth a lot more, even if it is not in very good condition. Say, for instance that you have a piece of Majolica pottery but it has a hairline crack in it, it will still be worth quite a lot of money. If you want to find out about how rare certain pieces are you can ask a local dealer or find an expert in the type of furniture you want to value.

You must also remember that when valuing item, just because they are old, does not mean that they are valuable.

Much of this has to do with the demand for an item and you will find that many items classified as antiques are not in high demand, which means that they do not have a high value. Similarly, if many of the same items from the early 1900s, for example, have survived, then they will be too common to hold a lot of value.

A very important factor to consider, when trying to determine the value of a piece of furniture, is to find out if it is real or fake. Many replica items that are carbon copies of original pieces have been created and some are only a few decade or even a few years old. Usually if an item of furniture has been in your family for generations and you know the history behind it, then it is authentic, but many items sold at flea markets and second hand store will need to be authenticated before you buy them. By looking for discrepancies in the markings will be a tell tale sign of a fake.

Another factor to consider is whether a piece has been restored or repaired. If an antique has been professionally restored, this can improve the value, but a poor repair job using some glue and noticeable solders, will negatively affect the value price of your antique piece.